Blast into the Past - Train Travel in Thailand

Giant Buddha at Wat Pongsanook in Lampang

Friday, June 15, 2012: Lampang

I like Lampang - a small Thai town not overrun by tourists, at least not at this time of the year, in mid-June. My guesthouse is on the riverside and everything just seems a 20 Baht-ride away. Getting a songthaew to the bus station was quick, from there it was a 3km walk to the railway station, and Thai railway stations are the most relaxed one can imagine. While the same in China are almost like airports with security checks, ticket control at the gate and special permission for non-travelers to visit the platforms, one is free to wander the station, the platforms and any adjacent areas in Thailand.

At Lampang railway station

I crossed the tracks numerous times to get to some remote railway carriage - no warnings, no one stopping me from doing so. Well, it has to be said that only some 5 trains pass Lampang in either direction when going from Bangkok to Chiang Mai or vice versa, and that is it. There might be some local or freight trains but there are no tracks into any other direction, only north and south.

I have taken the train a few times and unless one is in a hurry and time is an issue, it is a wonderful way to travel. The traveling time between the two cities takes from 12 to 15 hours depending on the train, and sometimes you would need to add a few hours in case of delays.

In the late afternoon, I strolled along the riverside passing a large temple area I could not find a name for and ended up at Wat Pongsanook which houses a giant lying/leaning Buddha. Most temples in Thailand - an exception are the famous ones in Bangkok - are free to enter and admire. Monks usually stay in their living quarter areas and one might see them coming or going but otherwise there is not much interaction. Dogs will bark at you and soon all dogs from the area will come around and join the barking but eventually they will accept the new visitor.

Riverside at sunset

For tomorrow, I joined a small group visiting the nearby elephant camp and then I will continue to Udon Thani by over night bus. The plan is to go to Dan Sai for the Phi Ta Khon (Ghost) Festival on June 22-23 but first I need to secure some accommodation there and also do a borderrun to Laos to get a 15-day visa for Thailand before mine runs out on June 23. So, no post tomorrow as I will be on the bus.

Details of the day:

1. Bus ticket from Lampang to Udon Thani 666 Thai Baht - traveling time approx. 10 hours.

1 Euro equals roughly 40 Thai Baht, 1 US Dollar about 30 Thai Baht.