The Colorful Phi Ta Khon Festival of Dan Sai

In particular on the first day (Friday), a lot of kids were dressed up and wearing the typical Phi Ta Khon masks

Friday, June 22, 2012: Dan Sai, Loei Province

It was rather a coincidence when I had learned about one of Thailand's most colorful festivals just a few weeks ago. I had never been to Dan Sai or to Loei province before which both seem quite underrated when it comes to international tourism in Thailand. I also had no idea whether I would find accommodation as it is said that the festival is very popular amongst Thais and one should check the dates of the festival and make hotel reservations well ahead of time.

A little boy who obviously got quite hot under that mask

Only a few days before, I called the Loei's Tourist Office and spoke to a woman called Pat who was very helpful. She managed to arrange a homestay for me, a fan room in Dan Sai with shared facilities for 400 Baht. Eventually the room had private facilities but was really more like a shack attached to the main house but considering that I was within walking distance to the festivities, I did not complain.

However, the problem eventually was that the place was very noisy and apart from the mentioned festival it seemed that it was also the time and place for a (motor)biker gathering and some of them drove up and down that small street until very late at night or more like until early morning whereas just before 6 a.m. all roosters in the neighborhood started their morning crowing, so after the third night with sleep problems, I have to admit that I was in quite a grumpy mood.

Two girls having fun taking photos with their (or their mother's) phone

Nevertheless, the festival itself was worth the trip. It is actually scheduled for 3 days, but on the third day there are no more parades or processions, only 13 consecutive Buddhist sermons at the Phon-Chai Temple at 4:00 a.m. (!) which is probably when I finally managed to fall asleep after having been kept awake by motorbike engine sounds and dog barks. Needless to say that I gave the sermons a miss this time around.

This was a rather unusual mask

On Friday, the first day of the festival there were ceremonies at the temple, performances on the stage in front of the Dan Sai District Office and dance competitions among groups of which many were made up by students from local schools.

These guys looked like they belonged to Colonel Kurtz's private army

On Saturday it got very busy as many Thais came to attend and participate from nearby provinces and from as far as Bangkok. The main street of Dan Sai was filled with people and vehicles turned into stages followed or preceded by groups of dancers and performers. It all had a bit of a carnivalesque feeling to it and Dan Sai, usually a sleepy farming village turned for 2 days into a vibrant festival town.